Christmas 2009 Peter Island, BVI

December 24-26  Peter Island

 

We spent a secluded, romantic Christmas Holiday at Peter Island Resort Marina…just the two of us. 

 

The Christmas Eve Celebration featured a female vocalist who sounded a dead ringer for Natalie Cole/Diana Krall, and a musician who channeled a convincing Kenny G.  We danced beneath the stars (OK, it was overcast, but we knew the stars were there…)  Dinner was a sumptuous buffet complete with seafood galore, roast beef so tender we cut it with a butter knife and a dessert table which ultimately over-whelmed us.  Christmas night was just as wonderful, with attentive wait-staff despite the fact they had to work for the Holiday, as well as more music from a Kenny-G-wannabe.

 

December 10-17 St. Thomas

December 10-13  Repair Drama

 

After picking it my much-anticipated ice cream machine, disposing of the copious packing material, we made an appointment with a woman in Benner Bay to measure for a new dodger and cockpit surround.  After Steve took her back to shore, the starboard engine would not start. A few attempts to get the engine to turn over and the cabin filled with an unpleasant "burning" odor, yes, that unpleasant smell of an electrical something-or-other finally giving up the ghost…

 

Turned out the solenoid and starter motor for the engine are KAPUT!  A quick call brought some local repair guys out to the boat.  They took the starter motor/solenoid with them, saying they should know Saturday what is going on…if it is just the solenoid (which they have a replacement for) or also the starter motor (which they do not).  Dad has called them once, but has not heard anything back.

 

Friday night, much to our despair, the generator began to hiccup, working in starts and fits.   A call to the repairman (hey, same guys that came out Friday) led us to believe they would visit us again Saturday…NOT!  We will not be seeing anyone until Sunday, if we are very lucky…or Monday, if we are not.

 

At this moment, we sit stranded in Benner Bay…certainly NOT the best place to be in a blow, forecast later today into Sunday, with gusts in the high 20-something knot range.  Rolling…Rolling…Rolling…  Such is life on a boat…

 

December 14-17  Repair Drama Part TWO

 

The generator finally gave up the ghost, and with the starboard engine not functioning, we went into Crown Bay Marina.  Why loose all the food in the freezer as well as the four, $1500 batteries we just installed?

 

It is windy here, gusting to the high 20-something knots making it a real joy trying to back into a dock with one puny 29 horse-power motor and our high free-board catching the wind…

 

After a couple of hair-raising moments, with the help of Benno (DIESEL DUCK) and his dinghy, we finally made it into the slip.  WHEW!  Glad that is over! 

 

Steve and Benno immediately set about to discover the issue with the generator after we docked, which Steve repaired the next morning.  Repairmen installed the starter motor, but during installation unfortunately uncovered additional issues.  Before they left they called an electrician, who was supposed to come by immediately but was MIA until the next morning.

 

We had already checked out of the Marina; paid our bill, the engines running, dock lines ready to retrieve, when the electrician knocked on the hull.  Almost as an after thought, we decided to let him “take a look”.  We were not required to be off dock until 11 AM and we thought a “quick” look would not hurt.

 

We stayed another night due to the surprise 7-hour repair marathon. The electrician and Steve determined water was getting into the starboard engine through the cooling tube to the shaft seal, the oil pressure sensor needed replacing, the engine exhaust elbow needed replacing after finding a hole.  Just to put icing on the cake, they checked and cleaned the ground to the starboard engine battery.   

 

Yes, it has been a very frustrating 4 days for Steve, but we are SO GLAD we found and fixed these issues before we had a serious system failure! 

 

Special note:  We were finally able to see Paul and Ginette (SOL MAGIQUE).  On a five day break from charter hosting, they had come to the USVI to see us.  Although repair drama took precedence, we were able to see them one evening for drinks and dinner.

 

12-18 All systems are up and running.  Today we are at Christmas Cove (just picked up my new convection microwave from Home Depot) and tomorrow will head for St. John.

 

DECEMBER 8 – THE BIG 6-0 FOR STEVE

December 8 – Steve’s Surprise 60^th BD party

Michelle (Daniel Storey) and I SOOO pulled off the surprise party!  Were it not for her covert assistance, I do not think I would have been successful. 

 

On December 4, Steve gave me a premise to return to Charlotte Amalie on December 8, (Steve said he wanted to see Oasis of the Seas come into port on her maiden voyage), and my planning began in earnest.   Emailing guests and Herve’s Restaurant in Charlotte Amalie, I instructed everyone to direct their communication to Michelle, bypassing a suspicious Steve’s inquiries into our email “sent folder”.

 

However, once the plan was set to motion, I faced 4 days of waffling about whether Steve really wanted to come back to after all, and if he did come back, whether he wanted to do anything for his BD.   He finally acquiesced and agreed to my casual suggestion we have dinner at Herve’s, a place we had eaten at before and thoroughly enjoyed.

 

Once we returned to St. Thomas, however, he again said he was unsure where he wanted to go to dinner, or even IF he wanted to go.  It was now December 7, time was ticking and I finally had to cover my bases admitting I had already made dinner reservations for the two of us, sneakily adding if he preferred another place that was fine with me. 

 

He waffled again, saying he did not want anything fancy…that he preferred to go to Shipwreck Tavern for a hamburger, repeating he really did not want to do anything.  I told him whatever he wanted to do was, once again, fine with me, that I would just have to cancel our reservations (and, unbeknownst to him, scramble like mad to rearrange everything).  However, I explained I could not cancel the reservations at that time as it was Monday and the restaurant was not open…BIG fib!

 

Up until the afternoon of the big event, he still had not committed to Herve’s.  It was touch and go, but I just remained calm not wishing to raise suspicions, repeating my mantra "whatever you want to do, Honey…"  Around 4 PM, (yes, December 8) he finally relented and agreed to go to dinner.  WHEW!

 

Reservations were at 6:30.  Steve of course wanted to go early, closer to 6:00.  I hemmed and hawed, putting on make-up last minute, delaying our departure for fear of running into party guests and ruining the surprise.  Sure enough, just as we arrived at the dinghy dock at about 6:15, three party guests simultaneously arrived, prudently docking well away from us. 

 

They scurried onto the dock and made a mad dash across the street to try to beat us to the restaurant.  Traipsing slowly up the street, trying to buy time, I told Steve I could not walk very fast as my sandals were loose and slipping on my feet.  As I spied the 3 guests moving slightly ahead of us up the street, I stopped to take a couple of pictures of Christmas lights, telling Steve it would be too dark later to get good exposure for the camera.

 

When we arrived at the restaurant, the Maitre D invited us to sit and enjoy a cocktail.  This intervention allowed another party guest to vacate his seat at the bar and skulk into the dining area unseen.  At last led to the table, cruising friends Benno/Marlene (DIESEL DUCK), Dave/Michelle (DANIEL STOREY), Dick/Jane (CHEETAH II), Britt/Teri (SEA OTTER) and Tom (LONE STAR) shouted a resounding "Happy Birthday". 

 

Steve was COMPLETELY surprised!  He had NO IDEA!  This was the first time in 33 years I have ever been able to pull off a surprise party…now Steve frets I have learned to fib too well J

 

Surprisingly, I think Steve actually had a very good time.  Our waiter was a stitch, very big man who described the dinner specials with such enthusiastic detail you could swear he was almost salivating.  (Steve even reached up once in jest to dab imaginary drool from the man’s chin with a dinner napkin)  He could have been Emeril Legasse serving us dinner for the many times he exclaimed "let’s take it up a notch" and "BAM, BAM, BAM!"  
 
He prepared tableside a warm bacon/balsamic-vinegar/sherry/cointreau dressing set aflame before tossing with fresh spinach, a salad large enough to serve the entire group.  It was yummy.  Half the guests had the fillet (topped with a creamy Roquefort sauce) and grilled lobster, paired with fresh asparagus and sautéed fingerling potatoes.  (More YUM factor) Several guests had the freshly caught pinenut/sundried tomato encrusted grouper.  Benno had Steak au Poivre, also prepared tableside.  Marlene had duck.  Everyone raved about the food.  Service was great, wine and water glasses kept well topped, food quickly served and plates promptly cleared.
 
Everyone ordered dessert, varying from bananas flambé (another delightful tableside performance), passion fruit cheesecake (extraordinary, even though it was more mousse-like than cheesecake like), and a chocolate something-or-other.  The restaurant staff also served Steve a complimentary, tiny chocolate mousse in a chocolate cup with candle burning brightly, all presented atop a plate decorated with a strawberry configured into a rose and with Happy Birthday written in chocolate. The presentation inspired a rousing chorus of Happy Birthday…
 
Earlier, I had mentioned to the waiter that today was also Britt’s BD, and the day before was Jane’s.  Much to everyone’s surprise and delight, after the presentation of Steve’s complimentary dessert, Britt and Jane received one, too.  More singing, sincere congratulations, opening of Steve’s presents and the evening ended.  It was a great success.  The dinner was fabulous, the company great and many good pictures taken to commemorate the event.

 

LAST BUT NOT LEAST, another funny story:

 

Jane was shopping for birthday cards, Dave tagged along.  While Jane was wandering about the store Dave found what he thought to be the PERFECT card, but since it was Jane’s idea to go shopping he did not scarf it up.  He waited for her to peruse the cards and, sure enough, she picked the same card Dave had wanted.  Later, Dave and Teri were in the same store.  Dave showed Teri the card, pining how he had wanted to buy it, but had left it for Jane.  Teri suggested he buy it anyway, as did she.

 

After dinner, at the giving of gifts, Michelle made sure Steve opened Dave/Michelle’s gift first, ensuring Steve would read their card before the others.  As Steve read the card, Jane’s face showed utter shock seeing her card had been duplicated…but she gamely said nothing.  Next gift up was Dick/Jane’s present and after opening the card, revealing it identical to the first, Dave laughed.  He told everyone the story of how he had found it first, but still allowed Jane to buy it before him.  In exchange for his gallantry, he resolved he would just have Steve open Dave’s card before Jane’s.  Next up was Britt/Teri’s gift.  Steve joked it was probably the same card, and Michelle asked, "How could that be?  The envelope is a different color…"  Dave, feigning innocence, dared Steve that if it DID happen to be the same card, Steve was obligated to moon them.  Steve accepted the dare…what a set-up…and you can guess what next happened…there are pictures to prove it…

 

Luckily, we were in a room by ourselves, wait-staff not in attendance.  Apparently turning 60 does not ensure one has become a mature adult… 

 

November 23-December 8 St. Thomas/St. James/St. John/ and back

11/23  Red Hook/Christmas Cove

 

Steve and I picked up the turkey today at Red Hook, as well as most of our groceries for Thanksgiving dinner.  After we finished shopping, we came over to Christmas Cove to anchor for the night.  John, SOJOURN, met us there after he dropped a guest off at the airport.

 

The 3 of us went for an hour long snorkel in the afternoon – saw FIVE rays, 3 clown wrasse (very colorful), a channel flounder, and another spotted drum.   It was a very nice snorkel, indeed.  John came over for a dinner of beef and bean burritos with pork green chili, followed by a mango panna cotta for dessert, as well as several games of SEQUENCE.   Overall, it was a lovely, relaxing day before returning to the hustle and bustle of Charlotte Amalie and preparations for Thanksgiving.

 

11/24-12/3  Charlotte Amalie

 

I have baked two pies (bourbon pecan with lemon zest and traditional pumpkin), cooked the giblets/liver and neck for the gravy base, as well as completed the preliminary steps for the stuffing (baked the cornbread, sautéed the veggies for the dressing and combined them with the crumbs).  I have roasted and chopped the walnuts for the Cranberry-Apple Compote.  The turkey was still frozen, after a day in the frig…I hope it thaws in time for Thanksgiving dinner J.   

 

Just learned we are now having 11 people aboard.  One couple that was not going to come will be attending after all.  Don’t know where everyone will sit…but hey…it’s Thanksgiving  J   I think we should have enough food…but if we don’t…we’ll survive  J 

 

Dave and Michelle (DANIEL STOREY) brought a sweet potato soufflé, Benno and Marlene (DIESEL DUCK) brought a vegetable

mélange, John (SOJOURN) brought wine, and Terri and Britt (SEA OTTER) brought home-made dinner rolls and Dick and Jane (CHEETA II) brought sausage balls as an hors d’oeuvres, corn pudding, as well as rum balls as hostess gifts.  What a lovely day it turned out to be, blessed by the company of friends, new and old. 

 

Following Thanksgiving, Steve and I took the boat into the marina so we could replace the boat batteries.  What a chore!  Each battery weighs 125 pounds.  We had to use a halyard to lift the old batteries out of the forward locker, swing them off the boat to the dock, lift the new batteries onto the boat deck and then lower them into the forward locker.   It took us about 3 hours with poor Steve climbing in and out of the locker for each battery as we removed and replaced them one at a time.  After a hard day’s work, we met Benno and Marlene at 6:30 for drinks and dinner at Tickles. 

 

The next morning, we got our wifi straightened out.  As we were having trouble logging on to the new service we bought, even though it had a phenomenal signal, we finally bit-the-bullet and bought a modem for Internet.  Now we can get a signal no matter where we are…even traveling from anchorage to anchorage.  Now that’s what I call being spoiled!

 

12/3-6  Christmas Cove, St. James and Francis Bay, St. John

 

Snorkeling…relaxing…reading…lazing aboard…Friday night prime rib at Maho…life does not get any better than this.

 

12/7-8  St. Thomas

 

Today we returned to St. Thomas to anchor on the west side of Hassel Island in anticipation of the arrival of Oasis of the Seas December 8.

 

The morning of December 8, we watched her come into Crown Bay Cruise Ship Dock via the West Gregerie Channel.  As her bow emerged from Water Island, she did not appear so large…but the bow kept coming…and coming…until her mid-ship appeared.  By the time she cleared Water Island, Haypiece Hill seemed dwarfed and the Costa Americas, already at the dock, provided contrast, showing how big the OASIS truly was. 

 

The production was high-lighted by VHF radio traffic overheard between the pilot house, dock-master, Coast Guard and deck hands, providing an insiders view of the patient maneuvering of the boat into port…slowly coming forward, backing up, coming forward, stern thrusters pivoting the hulking mass, everyone attending to the location of yachts anchored nearby, as well as the approaching dock.  WHEW!  It was quite a spectacle!

 

Oasis of the Seas, measures 225,282 gross tons, almost half again as large as the runners-up, the vessels of the Freedom class, and 5 times larger than Titanic.  Its displacement – the actual weight of the vessel, estimated at approximately 100,000 tons, is about the same as that of a Nimitz class aircraft carrier. Currently the largest cruise liner in the world, it is too long, too wide and too tall to qualify for passage through the Panama Canal.

Onboard recreational, athletic, and entertainment activities are organized into seven "neighborhoods".   One of which is Central Park, home to the first at sea living park featuring 12,000 plants and 56 trees.  Another, the Pool and Sport Zone, hosts the first at sea sloped entry beach pool and two surf simulators.  The Boardwalk features the first at sea carousel, 2 rock-climbing walls, the 750 seat Aqua Theatre, as well as the ship’s largest fresh water pool.  For additional information and pictures of the ship, please visit http://www.royalcaribbeanoasisoftheseas.com

St. John November 2009

11-14/22 

On November 14, we made it safely to Coral Bay, St. John after 15:30 hours of light winds and following seas.   The lull before the storm, as it were, as the next two and a half days were drenching!  Rain and squalls forecast up to 50 knots.  One that came through was probably closer to 30 knots, but the direction of the wind brought rain all the way through the cockpit and through the salon door.  Parts of Coral Bay sustained minor flooding.

 

We moved to Little Lameshur on November 17, the time just flying!  It is so beautiful here, so much solitude, we are going to stay for a few days before leaving for the hustle and bustle of St. Thomas.  We want to take advantage of the peace and quiet, as things will certainly change as more cruisers arrive. 

 

We hiked the Yawzi Trail, walked to Great Lameshur and kayaked over to Europa Bay and White Point.  The swim/snorkel back from White Point was incredible, spying our first Spotted Drum, a beautiful Queen Trigger Fish, accompanied for a brief time by a nurse shark. 

 

After the first shark sighting, I was swimming along when some hit me hard in the back.  A real adrenaline rush, let me just say, until I realized it was merely the kayak towed by Steve.  The third sighting happened as Steve rounded some rocks…and nearly ran face first into her…needless-to-say, another adrenaline rush. 

 

We also chanced upon two very nice lobsters, the largest of which had no idea we were there…or if he did, could have cared less!  He meandered along the bottom for a couple of minutes, completely exposed.  It was fun to watch his spider-like shuffle, antenna twitching this-way-and-that.  At one point, he sidled up next to a small fan coral, which waved unexpectedly into his side.  He performed quite the cartoon lobster jump!  I could almost imagine him saying "Holy Smokes!"  J

St. Martin November 2009

11-5   Barbuda to St. Martin

 

As Steve put it…"These f***ing lures are amazing!"  Out in open water between Barbuda and St. Barts, the poles have had seven hits, five fish landed: three black-fin tuna, one frigate mackerel and one Little Tunny.  As we easily got three meals from the first two tuna, we released the other fish…why put fish in the freezer when you can eat it fresh?  Unfortunately, we lost another lure – a larger pink and blue squid.  At this rate, we are going to have to buy a case of lures just to keep up!

 

The water was flat, winds low, but with the screecher unfurled we made 6-6.5 knots motor sailing.  

 

11-6 to 11-13  St. Martin

If one needs to get anything done on the boat, St. Martin is THE PLACE!  Setup to service mega-yachts, most repair technicians are up to most tasks.  Luckily, the poor economy resulted in mega-yachts not arriving in St. Martin this early in the season, which allowed us to easily schedule repairs.  The water-maker and the VHF are now in superb running condition.

 

I have been detailing the boat in places I have never thought to clean before.  Let me just say a Sonicare electric toothbrush does a splendid job on nooks and crannies.  My OCD scrubbing of the headliner in the galley caused Steve to make a clever comment, "There must be something to the metaphysical belief that when a loved one passes you take on some of their characteristics (referring to my Mom, of course)…and I’m OK with that."  To which I replied, "Guess you should start calling me ‘Esther’."  (The standing joke about Mom entalled eating off the kitchen floor…so clean, you could…)

 

One night, a storm came through.  It started with lightening, the wind picked up out of the west, reaching 30 knots.  The rain pelted and waves buffeted the boat.  Weather in the Eastern Caribbean usually comes out of the East or Northeast, so having a storm come out of the West over large, open Simpson Bay resulted in an uncomfortable night.  We kept watch for about 45 minutes just to make sure the two boats in front of us did not drag.  Although the rain finally subsided, we had a long night of bucking.  By morning, we were actually sore from tightening muscles in reaction to the boat’s constant motion.

 

Waiting for a weather window to cross to the USVI allowed Dave and Michelle, DANIEL STOREY, to catch up.  It was nice to reconnect over sundowners at the Simpson Bay Yacht Club.

Barbuda November 2009

10-31 to 11- 4 Barbuda

Replacing the feed pump for the water-maker delayed our planned departure for Barbuda.  After finishing the repair with the morning squalls passed, we headed out.  It was a long, slow trip motor sailing close to wind – 32 miles took us six and one-half l-o-n-g hours. 

 

The pink fishing lures proved worthy again.  On the way, we caught two fish, Bonitos, known for darker stronger tasting meat, so we did not keep them.  Apparently, there was also a third, substantial strike we did not even see.  When we pulled the lure in, we found yet another pick lure destroyed.

 

Tucked under the southern part of Barbuda, it does not seem the forecast winds or squalls made it here.  With such mild weather, we polished up our own "storm", detailing the fiberglass and stainless.  Hyped to see football, Steve made an early day of it.  Unfortunately, we were unable to get the Bronco game and all the other games were less than inspiring.  He ended up reading…yes, reading.  He is on his third book in four weeks!

 

The only boat in the bay, we are under the watchful eye of a huge barracuda lazing off the starboard transom.  Although the barracuda chose not to accompany us during an early afternoon snorkel, we did happen upon a small hawksbill turtle and the largest stingray I have ever seen, the disk, nearly 4 feet in diameter.  Almost completely buried, the disk clearly outlined under the sand, I nearly swam by…were it not for its bulging eyes and swishing tail.  Initially, I wished he would stir.  Then, after estimating his size, I was just as happy when he did not.  He was VERY impressive, if not a bit intimidating.

 

We moved to Low Bay our final 2 days.  Catching a water taxi, we crossed the lagoon to Codrington, the capitol of Barbuda, to clear out.  Codrington is not only the Capitol; it is the only town on the entire island. J  The municipality has undertaken quite an improvement project.  Whereas most of the streets in town used to be crushed limestone and sand…in other words "au natural"…the government is currently replacing the streets with concrete.  Pat, our water taxi/guide, told us the government has brought in masons from Cuba (of all places) to do the work.  Much to Pat’s disapproval, with only 1500 residents on the island, he feels it would be a good opportunity to use the masons who live on Barbuda. In addition to taking away jobs, he is concerned the Cubans are killing and eating the indigenous donkeys.  Even though Pat thought the donkeys have always been a pain in the ass (pun intended), wandering about freely, getting into stuff, pooping everywhere, he never thought of them as a food source.  Chuckling, he commented it appeared the Cubans have taught him something new!  J 

 

Mo Sallah, manager at the Lighthouse Bay Hotel, kindly showed us around the property.  The nine rooms are some of the nicest we have seen, situated around a fresh water pool steps from a sugar-sand baby-pink beach.  The pink Eleuthra beaches have nothing on Barbuda!  Anyone interested in previewing the property can peruse the website:  www.lighthousebarbuda.com  or call 646-688-2903 (US) or 268-562-1481 (Barbuda) for rates and additional information.  NOTE:  The Lighthouse is cruiser friendly.  Stop in for cocktails or dinner.

Antigua October 2009

10-28  Falmouth, Antigua

Went in to Falmouth Harbor to clear Customs and Immigrations, and settled in for one night. 

 

10-29/30 Lunch in English Harbor and on to Jolly Harbor, Antigua

 

Moved to English Harbor to treat ourselves to lunch at Catherine’s Café, one of our very favorite restaurants in Antigua after which we headed off to Jolly Harbor to provision and stage for a trip out to Barbuda.   (Catherine’s Café is a “must visit”, as well as the perfect place to watch the Classics Regatta Boat Parade.  Open Wednesday-Monday for lunch and Friday night for dinner.  268-460-5050  Email: mephisto@candw.ag )

 

FUNNY STORY ABOUT HONEY:  When we were at the local grocery store In Jolly Harbor picking up provisions, Steve asked one of the stocking clerks, "Could you tell me where your honey is located?"   Guess he should have asked where the "store’s" honey was, because she proceeded to get a come hither look in her eyes before looking down toward her…need I be more specific????  Steve blushed and quickly corrected himself…"honey…honey from bees…"  Only in the islands….

Pit Stop Guadeloupe October 2009

10-27 Guadeloupe

 

Last night the mother of all electrical storms came through Dominica.  A blinding flash of light…one thousand one…one thousand two…Rumble, crack, BOOM!  Even lightening two miles away produced a concussion large enough to make the boat shudder.  Another flash of light, immediately followed by a thunderous CRACK, directly overhead caused held breath!  The show went on for well over a half hour.  Fabricated fireworks are nothing compared to Mother Nature’s pyrotechnic display.

 

The weather report from 2 days ago had indicated wind would be up beginning today, around 22-25 knots…however with the unpredicted front that came through last night, we thought the wind had arrived early.  Unable to get a weather report this morning, we went ahead with out departure.  Crossing the Guadeloupe/Dominica channel, the winds topped out at 34 knots…without a squall.  The boat sufficiently rolled and bucked I wore my surgical neck brace.  After such placid days of motor sailing, today was quite a change. J  Finally, in the lee of Guadeloupe, the trip turned much mellower. 

October 2009 Dominica

10-23/24  Rouseau, Dominica

We decided to bypass St. Pierre as we have been there several times heading instead to Roseau, Dominica.  On the way, Steve caught a Mahi Mahi, which I will fix for me tonight, while Steve will suffer through with Grouper I have in the freezer.  No sense in him having an allergic reaction again….even though I do get a kick out his “Tom Berenger” lips  J

 

We took one of seven mooring balls run by Dominica Marine Center.  A short dinghy ride brought us to the Fort Young dinghy dock, a darling little hotel built in the ruins of the old fort.   Although sections of the town appear run down, some of the architecture is worth seeing; particularly the Catholic Church built in 1853.  When compared to the Methodist church, 1890’s, next door you cannot help but know who has all the money…

 

There is also a great little gourmet provisionary, PIRATES LTD, owned by Frederique Huard.  As we strolled the streets of Roseau, we chanced upon her store. What a find for sailors!  If you are in transit to Dominique, you can email or call Frederique with a list of provisions, which she will have ready for you when you arrive.  (Email: pirate@cwdom.dm  phone: 767-449-4634  cell:  767-616-8383)  She will even deliver – to the dock in Roseau or as far north as Portsmouth!  She specializes in wines, cheeses, quality deli meats, sausages and has a well-stocked liquor store, to boot. 

 

Although the Saturday farmer’s market is small compared to other islands, we could still get anything we wanted from friendly helpful vendors.  Walking along the streets in search of a local bakery, one woman even walked us back to her favorite – a van selling baked goods from the cargo area.  Fresh bread and rolls, still warm from the oven, were almost more then we could bear.  YUM!

 

Moving up to Portsmouth in the afternoon, John, SOJOURN, caught up with us during a pit stop on his way north.  He, too, is going to the Virgin Islands for the winter season.  We caught up over dinner and a few games of SEQUENCE aboard Seaman’s Elixir.

 

10-25/26  Portsmouth Dominica

 

Today we hiked the Cabrits National Park, which is the site of Fort Shirley.  The Fort sits on two hundred acres, and we hiked 80% of it.  Estimated about three miles, up hill and down, we left the boat around 9:30 and did not get back until 1:30.  This was the most difficult hike undertaken since surgery this summer.  Although I had quite the internal conversation going on, ("I don’t think I can make it" vs. "Just keep walking…one foot in from of the other").  I was very pleased with myself.

 

While exploring Fort Shirley, it was particularly disconcerting learning about its 1774 construction by 400 enslaved Africans working in intolerable conditions.  Merely 20 years later, the mistreatment by superiors of the West Indian Regiment (black slave soldiers enlisted in the service to the Queen) led to a revolt.  However, it took another eight years for this revolt to result in the freeing of 10,000 slave soldiers, the first mass emancipation of blacks in British held territories in the Caribbean.  It was about time…

 

At Fort Shirley, I watched locals rebuilding/reclaiming the same structures built by their African forbearers.  Not quite history repeating itself, still I could not help but wonder what their ancestors would think.